![]() ![]() The reason I opt to not get all technical and do a waiver is obvious. (.50-1.00 per) I charge it because of the extra time it takes to remove and replace them in the window. The charge is a handling charge and actually most charge more than that per grid. If you tell them your not responsible why do you charge them extra? I ordered them from 84 Lumber (Anderson grids) for about 16 dollars each. How many of these have you actually had break? From a close-up perspective, you lose the dimensional effect and look of a physical grid on the outside of the pane, but retain the overall look of divided lites. You also can just rely on a grid between the panes to simulate the look of lites. To create a realistic effect of divided lites from the exterior perspective only, you can use a grid on the exterior side of the window in combination with a grid between the panes. To create a realistic look of divided lites from the interior perspective only, you can use a grid on the interior side of the window in combination with a grid between the panes. ![]() How do you guys handle grid removable/replacement and how much do you charge as a PITA cost? I’m also interested in any tips, tricks or otherwise that may enhance the handling of grids in homes. I have not had a negative reaction yet as I believe most understand. I implemented an extra 25 cents per grid charge for the handling and in the sub division I speak of I verbally tell the customer that the homes in their area have problems with older/fragile grids and I tell them I will work diligently but cannot be responsible for defective grids. However the sub division that I spoke of is notorious for having those ones that have aged beyond good use and I have to be extra cautious with those. Then I work the left side from top to bottom in place and then delicately bow the middle to get those last ones in place on the right. (mostly for my employees) I put the bottom snap in place first and then bow it out slightly and put the top snap in place. Replacing the grid back in it’s proper position after cleaning the window is sometimes a challenge. We have learned over time that it is important to put these grids back in the window they were removed from (like screens) as they may have been attached to a window that has settled over time and slightly warped itself thus causing the grid to have a slight slant to it. The best way I have found to delicately remove them is to grap the grid directly in the middle and bow it out gently to remove them. (a few exceptions) Because the homes are getting on in age we run into many that are fragile. You can have the grid intersection only at the top or in all 4 corners.There is a sub division of homes that I service regularly that has 25-30 year old homes with Anderson windows with the interior “snap-in” grids in all of them. Perimeter grids offer an even broader choice of patterns because you can specify a perimeter on each window, on just a sash or a perimeter across an array of windows and/or doors. Perimeter Grids – For an attractive contemporary look, consider Perimeter grids which provide an outline on the perimeter of the glass with the grid intersecting in the corners. Like Standard grids, you can specify the number of lites across and the height. ![]() Valance Grids – Valance grids are similar to the Standard grids but are only across the top of the window or door. You can also specify the number of lites across and up/down, depending on the size of the glass. Standard grids can be used on the whole window or door, just on the top sash. ![]() Standard Grids – also known as Colonial grids, these are the popular squares that work well in traditional or contemporary styles. Grids come in Standard, Valance and Perimeter styles in a seemingly endless array of combinations. ![]()
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